Reflections of a River Cruise

 I did not realize how dependent the river cruise industry is on the river levels. I remember one of my first experiences of living in a small town near a lake was hearing the lake level announced daily on the local radio station. It struck me as odd and “Who cares” (my reaction). As I acclimated to “near lake” living and living in a farming community, I began to realize how important the water level is to many people. So it was like Deja vu. Everyday, we wondered if the water level would be too low to continue our trip on the river. They drained the pool early on during our voyage to help lighten the load. They brought in another expert on river navigation to help decide the next moves. We heard of another cruise line that had to bus their people 8 hours down the road to board their ship because their ship was unable to arrive in their planned port due to the water level. Luckily, we were able to continue on as if there wasn’t a water level issue.

River cruise ships are smaller than ocean cruising ships and I thought less crowded. Well, the dining room (only 1) was smaller and it didn’t take much for the noise level to be “off the charts.” The ceilings are lower on a river cruise ship so the sound has no where to go. It was nice that light meals were offered up in the lounge area (with great views) and few people took advantage of this offering.

To be honest, the room balconies are not used much. It is easy to relax up in the lounge or on the top deck so I will think twice about a room with a balcony on my next river cruise. 

Another thing about river cruises is the traffic. Commercial ships are constantly traveling up and down the river competing with tourist ships. We have to schedule our port stops and sometimes huddle up three abreast at the port. That means walking through one or two ships to reach dry land. I don’t mind sharing but this takes a lot of planning ahead and communicating. At one port we had to wait to dock because another ship hadn’t left yet and we couldn’t tether to it because they needed to leave. I guess when the ship asks you to be back on board at a certain time you had better be there. You could be holding up more than your ship.

Anyway, just some things to keep in mind when you plan your river cruise. You need to be flexible and relax. I understand now why there might not be as much time to explore in some ports as others. I also realize that I was just getting a little taste of the areas we visited and you would need to come and visit again to truly understand the area. I don’t have a favorite place as I loved them all. The guides were great and I learned a lot from them that I might not have picked up on my own. I want to go back and see more! Want to join me?

Breisach, Germany and Neuf-Brisach, France - A Tale of Two Cities

Today, we are starting in Neuf Brisach, France to see a fortified town planned by Vauban, a French Royal Army officer under the command of Louis XIV. Vauban was a great military engineer and many of his ideas were used over 100 years after his death. In 1697, France had to leave Breisach (had to give up) but France wanted a stronghold along the river so they went across the river and built this sister city, New Brisach. The city has been bombed in several wars but the fortification walls have survived. We strolled around the outside in the dry moat and were told it was a star shaped fortification. I found an aerial picture so you can see what we were visiting. This fortified town was built to defend France against the Holy Roman Empire (and later Germany).

Check out this website for more information about this fortification town. 

https://sites-vauban.org/en/node/7805

As we cross the bridge and enter the town, you can see a train on the tracks that has stopped to let our group pass on. How often does a train stop for pedestrians? Actually, I think this was a planned stop for the train and we happened to arrive just as he would have liked to continue his journey but he waved us across the tracks. It is only a two car train. 😂

We walked down into the dry moat area where this straw monkey is staring at us. He is just a piece of art - not there to frighten us. It is interesting an artist will create something that will fade away over time. 

The fleur-de-lis have been etched away from the shield on all of these cornerstones on purpose. During WWII, this town was occupied by Germany. In fact they laid railroad tracks down the middle of the town.

There are two rings of defense in the plan. The inner octagonal shape is ringed with an 8-pointed star. The 48- block city is planned with military personnel in barracks (a brand new concept instead of housing the military in people’s houses), center parade square (now a market square), and 34 blocks available for the townspeople in flat, straight, grid-like rows inside the city walls.

War memorial 1870-1871 near Basel Gate just inside the fortification walls.

This fountain served as a watering hole for the horses and emergency water in case of fire. Drinking water for the city came from 4 wells, one at each corner of the city.

Notice the top of this fountain. Louis XIV was known as the “Sun King.” King Louis believed he was divinely chosen to rule. He adopted the sun as his emblem because it gives life and everything revolves around him.

This might have been the barracks but I am not sure.

A church in the square.

The construction of Saint Louis Church began in 1732 and was destroyed during WWII. It was rebuilt from 1954-1965. The bell tower served as an observation post. Every soldier was required to attend church.

Stations of the cross.

Ornate woodwork on the pews.

If only I could read French then I could tell you what this says. I can make out a few items identifying patron saints. 

King Louis IX became king when he was 11 years old. Saint Louis is quoted as saying “The peace and blessings of the realm come to us through the poor.” He became a saint because of his role in the Crusades. He was born August 25, 1214, died August 25, 1270 and was canonized July 11, 1297.

Neuf Brisach is a quiet sleepy town.

Here is more artwork in the dry moat. You can see it is nearly deteriorated. Since this moat is maintained as a walking path for the city, efforts are made to provide interesting visual displays. As the season warms, baskets of flowers will hang from the bridges.

Now we will head to Breisach, Germany. Breisach means breakwater (it’s Celtic). Before the Rhine River was straightened some, Breisach was a hilltop on an island when the river flooded. We boarded a double decker bus to take us into the town.

I love the “ice cream” colors of these houses.

This church is our target but first we have many, many steps to climb. Luckily,  our guide chose a path with many stops. Also, a fellow traveler told me that small steps are easier than taking large steps.

Our guide did not offer an explanation to the etchings here on the side of this house. However, a search on the web revealed that not much is known about these etchings. It is not uncommon to find carvings in sandstone as they hold up well over time. These could be political, historical, or decorative.

Rainald Von Dassel brought the bones of the Magi to Cologne (he looted from Milan in 1164). This may be what this is saying.

What a view! This “far off” castle has a great view of Breisach. Eckartsberg (castle) is a ruin on the edge of the Black Forest. We are so close to the Black Forest here - in fact, the other tour offered today was a bike ride into the Black Forest but it was limited by the number of bikes available (😅).

Hagenbachturn (Hagenbach Tower) dates back to 1319 and was a prison tower for citizens.

This is up on the tower and I think I recognize the top left as the Hapsburg coat of arms. The one on the right reminds me of Austria and the bottom one reminds me of France. Not sure about any of this but maybe a history of the tower??

Steep steps but almost at the top. 😰

This is a series of war memorials at this look out stop. The soldier is bare headed, wearing a long coat, and bare footed. He represents all that are affected by war: soldiers, prisoners, and the displaced. 

This is a memorial for the Jewish that were deported in October 1940.

Victim + Peace + Freedom

We haven’t reached the top yet but we stopped to take in the view. We have been blessed to have had such wonderful weather on this entire trip and just wanted to stop and say “thank you.” 🙏

Interesting entry way on this stone road.

Private gardens inside.

Heavy door. Most of this town was destroyed during WWII and a big effort has been made to rebuild what was once there. 👏

Treadle Wheel Well Tower, dates back to 1198, composed of a 41 meter well with a wooden wheel, was a city hall, court, torture prison, and is now a gallery.

Isn’t this a neat fountain! The water fills up the bowl on one side then start to fill up the other bowl on the other side. I would like one of these, please.

Enter into the Franziskaner Monastery Gardens and see a breath taking view of the Kaistersthuhl wine region with the Black Forest in the background. 👀 Sometimes events are planned here but if not, it is free to visit and take in the view. There is a small “amphitheater” as well. This garden dates back to 1302. Volunteers have been managing it since 2018.

Dogs are welcome here.

This is a piece of art that is part of an open-air circular trail of art through out the city making art available to all at no cost.

I thought this was a secret way to post a house number. Boy was I wrong. I knew all the numbers added up to the same number, which ever row or column you chose, but I “did not connect the dots!” This was outside the former Franciscan Monastery. The magic number is how old Jesus was when he died.

The Monastery and grammar school from 1302-1793 and then a district house, office, court, and prison.

Unearthed, in 2013, is a Roman tombstone with a Latin inscription. Also, the stones in the church’s parade grounds are part of the road system of the Roman Empire.

St. Stephen’s Church (Breisacher Stephanmunster) is a Romanesque Gothic church dating back to 1185. St. Stephan is considered the first martyr of Christianity. Much of this church was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt around 1956. Not all items were destroyed so some items survived the war.

High altar is from the 16th century intricately carved out of wood.

Silver reliquary (1496) containing the relics of Gervasius and Protasius, two brothers martyred by Emperor Nero, and supported by 4 gilded lions.

The altarpiece (1523-1526) displays the coronation of Mary with St. Stephen and St. Lawrence on the left and Gervasius and Protasius on the right. Altarpieces stand behind the altar creating a backdrop for celebrating the Holy Eucharist during mass.

The four evangelists (apostles ?)

Choir stalls

The burial of Jesus with the sleeping Roman soldiers below.

Baptismal font 

Backside view of the reliquary 

Jesus is in the middle wearing a green robe. Mary is to his left and John the Baptist to the right. Angels are on either side of the window. Martin Schongauer painted these and they have been retouched recently.

This wall has images of heaven and the right side describes in Latin the delights of redemption. 

Trumpets awaken the dead with those on the right side in wonder and those on the left side in despair.