Saturday, August 2, 2025

Chester & Llangollen Excursion

We took a trip to North Wales and along the way we passed the ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey, “white monk” monastery of the Cistercian order who wore white robes. The monastery’s name means Valley of the Cross and was built in 1201 consisting of a colony of 12 monks which grew to about 60 monks, 20 choir monks, and 40 lay brothers. Monks spent their time in prayer and copying manuscripts. While most of the income for the abbey came from rent and tithes, the lay brothers tended the agriculture and sheep farming  providing food and additional income for the abbey. The fish pond provided necessary food as the monks were forbidden by their vows to eat meat. This is the only surviving monastic fish pond in Wales. Monasteries were dissolved because of a royal decree in 1537. Today, the ruins are open to the public and the abbey is surrounded by caravan parks (campers) on three sides, perfect for the area’s tranquility and beauty.

Dina’s Bran Castle, sitting on top of a hill about 1,000 feet above the Dee Valley, wasn’t the first building to be built on this site. A hilltop fort dates back to 600 BC when the Ordovician (a Celtic tribe) established a stronghold in this Northern part of Wales. Originally, it was a wooden fortification that was later destroyed by fire and the castle was rebuilt in stone sometime in the 1260s. The castle is associated with many songs, myths, and legends, including King Arthur and the Holy Grail. Dina’s Castle is also called Crow’s Fortress or Crow Castle, as “Bran” is Welsh for “crow.”

As we rode in the coach down into the valley, our ride took us through Horseshoe Pass which was very pretty to many but I suffer from height and very curvy roads, so I  didn’t look out the window much. There is a horseshoe falls somewhere in the area and that would have been a wonderful sight to see but we didn’t. Instead, we caught a glimpse of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal. It is the longest and highest aqueduct in the United Kingdom. As it turns out, the Horseshoe Falls was created to divert water from the River Dee to create a pool of water for the aqueduct. I believe the objects we can see up on the canal are people walking along the tow bridge. I don’t think those are canal boats at the moment but it is too far away to tell for sure. However, the boats wouldn’t be much higher than the edges of the canal. This structure was begun in 1795 and opened in 1805. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

We arrive in Llangollen and the flags are still up from the nine day July Fringe Festival - an arts, comedy, dance, and music festival. It is a very pretty country town and we found the creamiest ice cream as a snack. 

In Wales, the Gaelic names must be first, then the English translation is underneath. There is a big push to retain the Welsh language so Gaelic language classes are required all the way through high school.



We were able to stretch our legs and wander a little around town so we stumbled upon a little church nestled between some shops. Isn’t it cute they offer chair cushions on the last pew. 😁



We are now off to Chester, England. We passed a cute veggie garden on a small garden plot in the yard of a house near the road. Also, I tried to snap some pictures of typical houses (not much lawn/garden areas usually). I wonder what tourists think of our big lawns but I guess that is just the rural life I am used to. In the cities in the US, many city houses/apartments don’t have gardens either.

Chester dates back to 79AD when it was a Roman fort and about 2 miles of walls were built. The Vikings attacked during the Dark Ages. Chester became a successful trading port during the Middle Ages and the Chester Rows were built. These are two-tiered shops with a covered walkway and black and white facade store fronts. The upper class would shop on the upper tier away from the dirty walkways on the first floor. Eventually, the stilt in the river built up and the port was almost gone. Here is a cute  passageway through the wall.



North gate entrance to the wall.



View through the gate


Up on top of the wall


Notice the cute adornment on the chimney flue. 


The Chester Rows 








Chester Cathedral may have been a basilica during the Roman era but was demolished in 1090. By 1093, a Benedictine monetary was established at this site. Between the 10th century and the 15th century it had been modified many times. Monestaries were disbanded in 1538 and the Chester Cathedral became the Church of England under Henry VIII in 1541. It has been the seat of the bishop since then. The red sandstone is easy to carve details in it but rain and wind will easily erode it, therefore, it was extensively restored in the 19th century and the Bell Tower was added in the 20th century. It is now part of a heritage site.

I don’t know any architectural styles but found this on the web. Our guide was pointing it out so I took pictures of the areas she pointed out.

Norman style - 1093 era = North West tower & North transept
Gothic style - 13-14th centuries = Lady Chapel & Eastern end
Perpendicular style - ?? = central tower, South transept & large West window & new South entrance
Tudor - ?? = West front but never completed

This drawing is from a website and it outlines the areas built by time periods.








Most of the wall space in the nave had colorful pictures illustrating people from the Bible.






The Holy Family surrounded by 6 Saints (the west window) the door we came through.


The West window


The rood screen was a common architectural feature in late medieval churches. It marks the boundary between the scared from the worldly, separating the clergy and the choir from the nave (congregation). “Rood” refers to the cross or crucifix which is often placed at the top of the screen.




This is one area our guide pointed out the different architectural styles. Because of The Plague, the cathedral was built in different eras and styles changed. Rather than try to use the style as it was originally built, the artists built in the current time period. How many differences can you find in the following picture?


The choir loft - they were practicing for Evensong to be held later in the day. If you look closely at the bottom center of the picture, you will see the bird lectern is a bird with the book on its back.


The organ 



Nativity scene in the hallway 






The heating system - there would be a few of these on the sides of the church.


Another organ


Chest tomb and effigy of John Pearson, Bishop of Chester


High Altar


The Lady Chapel (1260-1275, restored in 19th century) contains the shrine of St. Werburgh (14th century). This vault is the only one in the Cathedral that is made of stone. St. Werburgh was born in the 7th century, the daughter of a Mercian King, and she became a nun and later on an Abbess. She was famous for her miracles of healing and this chapel remains a place of pilgrimage


Tiles on the floor of the chapel.


The chapel is decorated with carved roof bosses representing the Trinity, the Madonna and child, and the murder of Thomas Becket.





The Nativity window (1857)


This area is outside the dining area for the monks. There would be water on the ledge here or them to wash before meals.


As we leave the cathedral, we passed this sign.








Town hall, I think




Vintage car 😍




They have locked the door to this telephone booth in order to preserve it for future generations. 


Saw this sign on the side of a building.


We found our second home. It does need a little fixing up. It is a Victorian building constructed with Ruabon red brick. It was a law firm and prior to that it was a doctor’s practice. But it seems it is being bundled with 2 neighboring properties to be sold. It may end up being  demolished. ☹️




We did find a beer we like. Just relaxing waiting for the coach to take us back to the ship.


Homeless?? First evidence we saw of this problem.


















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